Waterfalls in the Ozark
My road trip through Arkansas took a welcome detour after my stay in Hot Springs National Park. Part one of this journey highlighted the architectural beauty of Garvan Woodland Gardens, the legacy of Bathhouse Row, and my first taste of the thermal waters that have called so many to the Natural State. But part two was unplanned, a true testament to the unpredictability of solo travel, something I’ve grown to love.
I awoke well before sunrise and left the cozy confines of Gulpha Gorge Campground behind me with my gear ready for another adventure. As the sky shifted into soft shades of indigo, I thoroughly enjoyed the famed Arkansas Scenic 7 Byway. Ranked as one of the most scenic drives in the United States, this historic highway winds through some of the state’s most picturesque landscapes, weaving through the Ozark and Ouachita Mountains. The road was a cinematic invitation into the unknown as fog clung low over the ridgelines and pine trees towered above the winding curves. Before the vapors dissipated, I pulled over to create amongst the mist with my camera and silence.
Arkansas Scenic 7 Byway. November 2024.
I spent the night prior mapping out a series of waterfalls I hoped to photograph within the Ozark-St. Francis National Forest. Here is an interactive map, fully coustomizable to your preference.
Tap the image for the interactive map.
Armed with a list and optimism, I disappeared into the morning mist. But the forest had other plans. Between gravel roads and overflowing creeks, I quickly realized I was navigating unfamiliar territory without cell reception, and my SUV wasn’t built to conquer the rising waters or the muddied forest paths.
My first and only successful stop was the one I wanted most: Glory Hole Falls. Tucked into the Upper Buffalo Wilderness, this trail is considered moderately difficult with a descent that leads through wooded terrain and across creeks. I especially experienced vibrant foliage and a slippery rocks after the recent rains. The trail stretches 1.8 miles round-trip and is especially popular in spring and fall, when water flow is at its best. The hike gifted me with a handful of smaller cascades on the way to the grand finale. One in particular danced just off the trail, its gentle rumble created a peace only nature provides.
I’m unsure the name of this waterfall, if it has one at all, but its greeting became an unexpected moment of play and practice. I took the opportunity to pull out my filters from NiSi Optics and slow the motion of the water with long exposure shots. With my tripod steadied against the uneven ground, I framed the falls using the fallen, warm leaves and nearby tree trunks as natural compositional guides. It was a quiet joy—just me, the rhythm of the water, and the patience to create something beautiful.
Unknown waterfall. Ozark-Francis National Forest 2024.
Feeling successful about our creations, I continued my venture toward Glory Hole Falls. Eventually, I reached the circular rock formation that defines Glory Hole Falls. Water flowed through a perfectly round opening in the ceiling of a grotto, cascading in a narrow veil into the cavern below. I carefully made my way down to the base, where I stood in awe, surrounded by yellow leaves and stoned cathedral walls. Sunlight filtered through the trees above, casting dancing shadows outside the grotto’s floor. On the rock face, handprints left by other adventurers echoed a shared reverence for the place. It felt sacred.
I lingered for nearly an hour, photographing and creating, quietly creating with nature’s offering.
My journey back was a bit more demanding with the uphill incline, but the views and serenity made it well worth the effort. Just as I reached the trailhead, I met a pair of local hikers and shared my obstacles successfully exploring other waterfalls. Unsurprised to hear about my challenges due to the recent rain, they suggested I attempt Alum Cove Natural Bridge for a short, scenic trail featuring waterfalls and small caves.
I caught a lucky break with a signal window and quickly mapped the route. Alum Cove, once roamed by Osage and other Native peoples, is now a part of the Ozark National Forest and home to one of the largest natural bridges in the area. The 1.2-mile loop trail led me through towering hardwoods, cracked limestone formations, and rhythmic creekbeds. Although known to attract photographers, the foot traffic was minimal, making the experience all the more personal. I found joy in crawling through shallow caves and listening to the steady drum of small falls hidden throughout the trail.
The biggest attraction is, of course, the natural bridge. My streak of bad luck turned into a jackpot as I witnessed the cascading water along the bridge. The low-hanging autumn sun peeked slightly above the short cliff, creating the perfect sunflare. The area twinkled with magic. It’s funny how things always work themselves out. This lesson of trusting the process became a major theme in my first solo trip.
The entire forest felt untouched, quiet, honest, and undemanding. As I drove away from this Alum Cove, I paused at rest areas to soak in the surrounding beauty, taking in deep breaths and exhaling all thoughts. Unlike the more trafficked national parks, the national forest offered something different: fewer crowds, no souvenir shops, limited reception, and more mystery.
Before officially leaving, I had hope to attempt one final waterfall. But the rains from earlier in the week made it impossible to cross the swollen creek safely. Instead, I stopped at the entrance sign of Ozark-St. Francis National Forest. Normally, I photograph myself next to national park and state park markers, but this time felt different. I left the sign untouched, a nod to the elusive nature of national forests and the humbling solitude they offer.
Ozark-St. Francis National Forest, Southwest entrance. November 2024.
I headed south, back toward Hot Springs. Golden hour light kissed the road before the dark blanket that began the day return. I anticipated exploring the trails of Hot Springs National Park one last time; but little did I know, one final, unexpected stop would call to me before my journey through Arkansas came to an end.
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